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Updated: 23 min 38 sec ago

Challenge Bathurst 2017

1 hour 29 min ago

It will be on again in 2017 so please watch this space for up dates and posts of whats going on,

If 2016 was any indication of what a great event it is please PM me if you want to be apart of the Group Z in 2017, I am sure we will have another AweZome turn out and have a fantastic time.DSC05722.JPG

Categories: Forum Activity

260z 2+2 Dogleg?

2 hours 10 min ago
Guys,
I have rust in the bottom of the body panel between the back of the door and the front of the rear wheel arch. I know on a 2 seater it's referred to as a "Dogleg". I'm not sure if it's called the same thing on a 2+2 or not, but anyway that's the panel in question. I thought I read somewhere on this site that you could use the replacement front rh lower fender replacement panel on the lh 2+2 dogleg, and vice versa. But I can't find the post again. Is this correct. Also is the pressing profile on the replacement lower fender panel for a 240z the same profile as for an early 77 260z 2+2.

Wally 57
Categories: Forum Activity

L28 Rebuild Advice

2 hours 25 min ago

Hey guys,

 

Some of you may have been watching my silly videos pulling apart my L28. I am starting to formulate a plan for the rebuild of it. I am not looking for a balls to the wall track pig, but I am keen on doing some simple mods. 

 

I have been reading Datsunzgarage and I have begun to formulate a plan to go forward.

 

I currently have an F54 block with a P90a head.

I want to keep the crank, rods, and possibly the flat top pistons as they appear to be in good condition.

 

I am planning to get the head shaved, as mentioned on Datsunzgarage so I know it requires the cam to have shims under it to keep the chain tension in spec. 

 

I obviously also plan on replacing the bearings, gaskets, etc, but planning on just going with stock items.

 

I also need to replace the cam anyway, as it has a bit of corrosion I am not happy about. This is where I am needing some advice. I want this car to be streetable, I am not looking for a super lumpy track pig. I want to try to retain my valves just clean them up and lap them. There is a small, but noticeable wear line on the last rocker (others seem pretty good), which lines up with the most corroded cam lobe. Do I need to get all new lifters with a new cam? Is getting them resurfaced a more cost effective option.

 

I was advised that if I did shave the head and raise the cam, that I would need longer valves? I am wondering, if I get the head shaved, can I then get a cam with higher lift and just add more lash?

 

Basically my whole aim, is to do 99% of it myself at home. I realise I will need a machine shop to shave the head, and possibly get them to thoroughly clean the head and block. Is there anything else I MUST do?

 

Also to note, I am thinking I will run triple webers, and an exhaust to be determined.

Let me know if I am stupid, or if there is a better way.

 

Jeff

 

Categories: Forum Activity

Very Straight Front Grille (Slated Type)

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 23:59

Hey Folks,

I'm in the middle of trying to straighten out a slightly bent grille, but thought I'd see if there is anyone out there with a good straight 1 for sale and what kind of asking prices?

 

I can probably get mine straight again with enough time invested but might be better off with another if I can find 1.

 

Thanks,

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ubqAKbbCDKsbfKRG2

Categories: Forum Activity

Watanabe Distributor in Australia

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 23:15
Quoted from classicz;

I know a lot of people here are very interested to know who i got my brand new watanabe's from, i didn't want to post details, until everything had been complete, but i am now more than confident to vouch for this supplier!

The Guys name is Miki Yokohata from prestige mart (Details below), and he has been incredibly helpful during the whole process.

The wheels are not what you would call cheap, but given that you could easily pay over AU$1500 for a secondhand set here in Australia, i thought it was more than reasonable.

It cost me $2300 for a set of 16x8 and a set of 16x8.5 Watanabe R 8 spokes in Magnesium finish. That included shipping (EMS with insurance)

as you may have read, i had ordered the wheels with a michined lip, however watanabe forgot this, and shipped them purely with a magnesium colour.. Miki helped me greatly by organising for watanabe to pay for the local finishing here in Sydney, i can not be any happier! i just wish all suppliers were as open with their communication and honesty

I am pretty sure he can order anything you want from RS watanabe, i however supplied the spec to him

Miki Yokohata
Prestige Mart
email: tpot@tpg.com.au
http://users.tpg.com.au/tpot

he is based in Western Australia and has an australian bank account etc. so no need to deal with japan accounts etc.

to have a look at what Watanabe offer, goto their website at: www.rs-watanabe.co.jp (they have a pretty good user gallery too!)

Categories: Forum Activity

Datsun Grey/Gray Paint

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 19:24
Hi Guys,
Does anyone know where you can get paint that matches the original 'Datsun Grey' used on the rear light panel, front grill, hub-caps etc?
Posted Image
Seen here also:

I found this comment in a thread here:
http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/26354-have-rear-panel-painted-leave-black.html#post265331

But I'm not sure if we have those paints available in Australia? Has anyone found a suitable product locally?
Categories: Forum Activity

Street Spec 1973 240Z

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 11:48

Hi guys,

 

Thought it was time to start up a build thread to share our works in progress and keep a record for the car. I posted a short story last year which can be found at the link below which gives you an insight into the family story and where the passion for Z cars has come from.

 

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12374-new-240z-member-sydney/

 

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The car was purchased in March 2014 year from a gentleman in Brisbane who had owned it since 1990. The car spent most of its life in Melbourne, where is had a restoration undertaken in 2000 by Lowood Welding Works where the body was taken back to bare metal, lead wiped and resprayed. The motor is original matching numbers which has assisted in our decision to stick with the L24. Our plans for the car are to make it a nice street driven car that can be taken out for weekend drives without having too many issues, yet also enjoy the odd windy road. The car itself has been quite well looked after but needed some well deserved attention in a few areas, especially the suspension / mechanics, so we decided this would be a good place to start.

 

The shocks and rubbers were completely worn out, so we purchased a set Koni Yellow Race shocks and a DIY Ground Control coilover kit. Also bought a set of new bushings all round to help take the boat feel out of the car. We were lucky enough to use our Dad's engineering factory, including the help of a competent welder, to complete the harder works such as cutting, welding, sandblasting etc. They took longer than expected to complete but we are very happy with the result. They seem like quite a good quality product, and they look good pretty good as well.

 

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While we had most of the suspension components out of the car, we decided to give it all all clean up by sandblasting and epoxy painting. This included the control arms, sway bar, tension rods, a-arms, moustache bar etc. Pretty happy with how they turned out, although it makes the remaining dirty undercarriage stand out even more, however we do plan on treating these areas in the future.

 

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The brakes also had an overhaul while they were out. We stripped them down, cleaned, replaced broken boots etc and rebuilt them to original specs at this stage. One of the front pistons was seized open which probably didn't help with the lack of brakes. We didn't spend too much time on them as we do plan on some upgrades eventually.

 

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After a 3 month wait, the Wats turned up from Otomotto. Temp fit had us a bit worried at first as it looked like they were never going to fit!Time to go get some tyres..

 

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Categories: Forum Activity

Carbies & Exhaust Backfire. Timing ?

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 11:43
Hey guys I have been going around in circles for a long time now. I have read all the books and searched the net high and low with nothing that has really stood out.
I seem to have what I think is a timing issue but cant seem to find what is causing it. The car starts and idles but when the throttle is pushed it backfires from the exhaust and also the carbies and stumbles like its misfiring. It doesnt matter what I do to the carbies ot just keeps happening.
Things I have checked and seems to be ok
-Valve clearances.
-Carbies. Floats, needles, 2.5 tuns out on jets, dashpots drop with a clunk ATF oil in them.
-Distributor is 280zx. Matching base wired to diagram on the net
-Coil is pertronix 3ohm. Bench tested with multimeter and is within specs
-New leads, plugs, cap and rotor
-checked for vacuum leaks and have nothing I can find.
-Compression check 150psi over all cylinders
-Checked Timing marks and cant see an issue but maybe overlooking something. Both cam lobes are both up. Sprocket is set on 1. Chain doesnt seem to have stretch according to the notch. Crank pulley is zero'd at TDC and cylinder 1 piston is at TDC.
I have included a few pics of the timing marks at TDC can anyone see any issues.
Does the rotor look like its not pointing at exactly TDC 1 Attached Thumbnails
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Categories: Forum Activity

Indicator Switch Upgrade - Non Oem

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 11:38

After several attempts to repair the OEM switch I've given up and performed an upgrade.

 

I found this process on HydridZ but I couldn't locate the switch suggested. 

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125801-repair-solution-for-bad-turn-signal-switch/

 

I found this switch at Bursons and after grinding away a bit of the dia on the toggle arm it worked perfectly.

 

Indicator replacement switch 1s.jpg

 

I've included locations of the holes - best done before cutting the plate to size.

 

Indicator replacement switch 2s mod.jpg

 

The hole sizes are 3mm for the securing screws and 11mm for the switch. 

Categories: Forum Activity

Cars For Sale (3rd Party Sites) Ebay, Carsales etc..

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 10:27
Hi Everyone,

If you are posting links to cars listed on ebay, it would be greatly appreciated if you could:

1.) Post the Ebay Item Number (usually located in the top right hand corner), along with the Ebay link. Sometimes ebay links are not reliable or don't work properly so including an item number is an easy way for others to look up the item if the link is broken.

2.) When the ebay listing is finished, if you could post the sale price and or the highest bid (if the item does not sell). If others are not watching an item, we cannot visit the item at a later stage easily so we cannot tell what it sold or didn't sell for.

3.) If possible save a few photo's from the auction and post them here. This is useful because it gives everyone an indication of current values and what you get for your money if you are looking to buy or sell.

This will help us all, for insurance reasons we have some proof of current values. For selling it helps us gauge our cars true worth and for curiosity sake we can compare year on year the values of our cars etc..

If anyone has further suggestions to this, please feel free to share them here.
Categories: Forum Activity

The Build 73 240Z

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 10:18
Hi Guys

Been wanting to get the build thread on the Z for a while now and finally the time has come.

Currently White 73 240z unfortunately Auto with a L24 engine. New plans are to strip the engine and the 3 speed out and slip in a L28 with a L28 5speed.

The flairs are definitely going to be taken off and if needed replace the inner and outer guards. Interior will get replaced with a new kit from the U S and A and I'm replacing the Recaro seats back to factory seats. I recently purchased some seat covers that will need to get put on the stock seats I have.

Colour I'm still not sure if I should stick to a off white or head down the 918 orange path. Both will look nice but I'm not 100% on this one. Attached Thumbnails
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Categories: Forum Activity

The Z31 Project - Race Car

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 09:44

Pics are always good so below are some taken with the engine and transmission still in which show the huge amount of space for big tyres in the wheel wells. Those are the race Hoosiers off the 280 which bolt straight up with no clearance problems, F 9" rims, R 9.5". I'm bloody rapt, so much space for bigger wheels and tyres.

 

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The project itself should start next week with filling in the T top openings and adding some structural bracing across the top of the door openings.

 

Seeing that it's a turbo model the brakes look like they have Z32 rotors, just need some decent calipers. One thing I've learnt is that suitable brake pads are very important, proper race ones will withstand extreme temperatures and actually brake much better. Having stock rotors means that they are not expensive to replace too. The rear axles are second generation CV jointed and for the R200 diff a reasonably priced Quaife LSD centre is available. Keeping all the stock type suspension, the rear will be interesting, I have some fairly dramatic mods in mind to get the semi trailing arm setup working satisfactorily

 

So the project is going to be stock based except for the engine and auto trans. 

Categories: Forum Activity

Lofty's Run Oct 2017

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 08:51

Another great run up to Clifton on the weekend although I got lost five or six times. Lots of rain as well and not so good a run home when the wipers stopped working. Great people great Zeds.

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Categories: Forum Activity

Home Built Z 'full Video Build'

Sat, 21/10/2017 - 07:33

Hey guys. Well I know it has been a while, but I have reached a stopping point on my 911 and it is time to start my Z build.

 

This week I first needed to replace the front wheel bearings on the 911 so I could put wheels on it and move it out of the way. I then got into doing a stocktake on my Z to see what it needed, and start formulating a plan for the build.

 

Here is the episode.

 

 

Categories: Forum Activity

A Few Hours Worth Of Bed Time Stories In Here.

Fri, 20/10/2017 - 12:17
http://tentenths.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78309

I struggled to find this thread again after seeing it a while back, thought I should bookmark it this time and those with interest in historic racing may also enjoy!
Categories: Forum Activity

Get Watanabe Wheels In Aus

Fri, 20/10/2017 - 11:53

Hi all, you'll now be able to get Watanabe wheels in Aus for a decent price and pretty much instant delivery! (No more 4 month wait..)

getmywheels.com.au for more info or message me, cheers!

Categories: Forum Activity

Which Tyre: Primarily Road But May Track Occasionally.....not Race Though

Fri, 20/10/2017 - 10:01

As per the title, I need to make a decision on tyres. Advice I've had so far says to go with a road/track type tyre otherwise you end up having have two sets of wheels. So what brand and model of tyre?

 

Rims are 16 x 8 +0. Looks like most people run 225/45 but I would prefer 225/50 for a bit more sidewall but there is nearly an inch difference in diameter and I don't want to add to or risk guard interference issues. Whats peoples experience with the 2 sizes?

 

Thanks

Categories: Forum Activity

Wanted: R200 Long Nose 3.36 Ratio

Thu, 19/10/2017 - 21:09

Looking for one of these as my 3.70 with a 1:1 5th gear is a bit frantic...wotcha got?

Categories: Forum Activity

Free: Brake Rotors For Te Astra

Thu, 19/10/2017 - 16:58

I know, not zed related, but if anyone in Adelaide drives (or knows someone who drives) a Holden Astra (98-2003, TE without ABS) I have a full set of brake rotors that I'm happy to give away to any member of this site.

 

Here's a gumtree ad that has part numbers and photos (ignore the price - free for forum members!): https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/collinswood/brakes-suspension/full-set-of-brake-rotors-for-holden-ts-astra-rda7542-rda7544-/1162588426

Categories: Forum Activity

Innova 5568 Professional Timing Light

Thu, 19/10/2017 - 16:55

As the subject suggests, I've got an Innova 5586 timing light for sale. It's basically as-new with very little use.

 

These are worth about $120 new, so I'm looking for $80 ONO.

 

Pickup from Adelaide, or plus postage (it should fit in a 3kg express post satchel, so about $16).

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Categories: Forum Activity