Must be picked up tonight or will have to call wreckers first thing in morning. All parts must go together, will need some help moving things around.
NB: rear suspension and wheels not on car but should be able to find them. Have mdf sheets you can use to drag it onto trailer.
Will be up all night getting house ready for settlement so call any time.
Everything must go at once.
Give me a call Guy 0404 311 193
To kick things off an interesting car for sale is this 280z.
Asking 100K - never registered car.
NEVER LICENSED 1976 280 Z, 1976, $ 100,000.00
80 Z car bought from dealer 1976 and has never been licensed. Driven 36 miles and then parked for, Yes 38 years and still smells new. 354 total miles. Not sure what to ask for this car taking all offers. Feel free to call me at your convenience, thank you for your interest. Dean 909-257-6551
Hi guys i have Speedo Drives 3.9, 4.11, 4.375 & 4.6 available for sale, and can get all the other options too, 3.7, 3.54 etc
these are brand new and come with the alloy housing that slides into the gearbox, but have some used cheaper options too or can sell gear only no housing for less.
$65 posted australia wide
Does anyone here have any pictures on how you are supposed to mount the front number plate on a 240ZG? I know I could just fab up any old thing, but i'm interested to see how it was done from the factory and how others have done this.
I have a problem with my steering column hitting my dash and I'm not sure what the problem is.
Now I have installed a 260Z dash in my 240Z, but thought the dash and column positions and height would be the same. I bolted my steering column straight up to the pedal box with the 4 bolts. It all mounted fine. Now with the dash in something is clearly not quite right. I can't mount the lock on the column because it hits the dash.
Does the column mount straight to the pedal box or should there be a space in between them to bring the column down a bit?
i'm looking for a cassette deck to go in my '82 280zx..........cheers
I'm looking into replacing my brake booster as my current one seems to have a leak.
I've trolled through various threads regarding R33 GTS-T brake booster upgrade, but according to the thread below, you will have to drill the firewall to fit it in correctly.
Which got me looking after off-the-shelf products.
Has anyone used the below brake booster from MatDat?
Is it the direct bolt on?
It will go into my 260Z which will be a nice road car when it’s finished.
Just wondering what people have used for headers?
I'm after a 240Z rear panel that sits in front of the number plate. One of these.
Pics are always good so below are some taken with the engine and transmission still in which show the huge amount of space for big tyres in the wheel wells. Those are the race Hoosiers off the 280 which bolt straight up with no clearance problems, F 9" rims, R 9.5". I'm bloody rapt, so much space for bigger wheels and tyres.
The project itself should start next week with filling in the T top openings and adding some structural bracing across the top of the door openings.
Seeing that it's a turbo model the brakes look like they have Z32 rotors, just need some decent calipers. One thing I've learnt is that suitable brake pads are very important, proper race ones will withstand extreme temperatures and actually brake much better. Having stock rotors means that they are not expensive to replace too. The rear axles are second generation CV jointed and for the R200 diff a reasonably priced Quaife LSD centre is available. Keeping all the stock type suspension, the rear will be interesting, I have some fairly dramatic mods in mind to get the semi trailing arm setup working satisfactorily
So the project is going to be stock based except for the engine and auto trans.
1976 260z 2+2 (11162) Manual
Not a lot to add here, but I figure I start something off here. This will most likely be a slow process, as most things that I am doing are new to me, even some of the simplest tasks for most. I have been around cars & motorsport for a bit, but other than stereo systems, & headlights, I have never really needed to touch anything on a car before. (What have I gotten myself into)
To date, I have installed a new speedo cable (removed and reinstalled tacho & speedo), got the choke cable attached on the rear Carbs. And bought new fuse panel cover, choke knob, trip reset knob. Small bits and pieces.
This weekend (I finally have a free weekend, shhhh, dont tell the wife) I plan remove the heater valve/c0ck as it is leaking coolant into the foot well and see if I can fix that myself, as these seem to be really hard to find brand new, or cost over $200. I have seen Sirpent rebuilt his, so I will give that a shot. And based on the recommendations of a few people, might as well get my Heater core re-cored at the same time. Probably go to Dandy Radiators.
Any advice on removing this valve? I am hoping I dont have to pull the dash out (I know do not need to pull the dash out to remove the heater core).
not sure if this has been covered before.
has anyone looked at or possibly fitted this electric power steering developed for the Z's
I have had triple webers set up on the car for a while now, very happy with them but now looking to resolve a long awaited issue - the progression circuit!!!
These are 45mm DCOE (152). From what I gather the 152g came out after these with an extra 1-2 holes drilled into them.
Basically the issue is as per the picture - the throttle plate should sit directly under the first progression hole. This way as you just crack the throttle from idle (driving off at a set of lights) you won't enter a lean spot until you reach the first hole which then allows more fuel in (the transition between idle circuit and main circuit). If I adjust my idle screw to position the throttle plate under that first hole the idle is approximately 3200rpm.
After some fiddling around I got relief from changing emulsion tubes to an F7 which provides a "richer" bottom end throttle response. This combined with a very rich idle Jet (65F9) has relieved the issue some what and I have been happy with it up until this point. The downside with this set up is that fuel mileage is rubbish as during normal driving you are generally sitting around the progression holes when cruising.
The time is now drawing near to put together the new engine in which case it will give me time to address this issue with the carbies off the car. My question to you all is - has anyone here done it (as I have seen some alpha posts about it) and how were you able to accurately measure the spot to drill the hole..??
Cheers Attached Thumbnails
If you are posting links to cars listed on ebay, it would be greatly appreciated if you could:
1.) Post the Ebay Item Number (usually located in the top right hand corner), along with the Ebay link. Sometimes ebay links are not reliable or don't work properly so including an item number is an easy way for others to look up the item if the link is broken.
2.) When the ebay listing is finished, if you could post the sale price and or the highest bid (if the item does not sell). If others are not watching an item, we cannot visit the item at a later stage easily so we cannot tell what it sold or didn't sell for.
3.) If possible save a few photo's from the auction and post them here. This is useful because it gives everyone an indication of current values and what you get for your money if you are looking to buy or sell.
This will help us all, for insurance reasons we have some proof of current values. For selling it helps us gauge our cars true worth and for curiosity sake we can compare year on year the values of our cars etc..
If anyone has further suggestions to this, please feel free to share them here.
would you like some beef jerky?
thank you, come again
Hilux calipers if anyone is looking for some here are some already removed for you
Just to be clear this car is 95% finished as seen at the 2017 VicZed BBQ .
So after finding a rotisserie the strip down could begin. After taking the engine and gearbox out I would lift the car a high as I could with jacks, blocks of timber. I used the engine Crain to lift the front end and mount it onto the rotisserie . Attached Thumbnails
Read and discuss. I think this that Michael is on the money here and to be honestly i don't really care what my zed is worth (apart from insurance value) as mine's a keeper.
Porsche is definitely a marque that is supremely over valued currently and as stated about to be joined by the "bad ferraris".
I want lower classic car values so i can afford to own more of them!
A few months ago I purchased a 77' 2+2 with the intention of doing some serious mods (RB25DET) to it however the car is very original, came with RWC, original rego, lots of paperwork all matching numbers etc and is in good condition so Ive decided to keep it as a weekend driver while I looked for another candidate that I wouldnt loose sleep over inflicting some serious mods too.
Wasnt too long before I got lucky.... through a friend of a friend I heard about a Z that had been sitting in a garage for many years and manged to convince the owner to let me take a peek. Initial impressions wernt that great but as I looked closer I realised it had some potential.
Car is a 4/71 plated HS30 chassis # 00728 and had been partly stripped 17 years ago for a resto by the current owner but he lost interest and never went any further. The full drive train and underbonet were undisturbed but he's pulled all panels off as well as the interior and paint stripped the shell. All parts were in boxes and marked.
Overall condition of car:
No "visible" holes under the battery tray.
No holes near bonnet hinge mounts
Fuel filler excellent.
Rear hatch and hinge mounts excellent.
Slam panel, rear valance and beaver panel excellent.
Spare wheel well excellent.
Drivers floor and rail good (I think).
Bonnet has a small hole.
Rear wheel arches are pretty good 8/10.
Not so Good Bits
Both doors will need skins.
Front guards will need repair sections.
Reinforcement plate on chassis side near caster rod has holes on battery side, drivers side looks suss.
Passenger rear floor and rail will need repair, front half looks OK.
Both dog legs, rear section of sill and inner section are pretty bad.
Passenger front sill panel (behind guard) stuffed.
Top radiator support panel had a foam seal glued to it and is pretty sad.
I finally convinced the owner that it was better off in my shed than his so we swaped cash and car.
Overall Im pretty happy with the acquisition.
It had been repainted from the beige original colour to a dark red and is covered in residual paint stipper and superficial surface rust. Plan is to get it on a rotisserie and have it blasted to reveal the deeper evil.
Thanks to Lurch for looking over the 2+2 and advice thus far and thanks to all on the forum for the inspiration to take this on.
Will see you at the BBQ tomorrow night.