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L28 Rebuild Advice

Latest Posts - 1 hour 19 min ago

Hey guys,

 

Some of you may have been watching my silly videos pulling apart my L28. I am starting to formulate a plan for the rebuild of it. I am not looking for a balls to the wall track pig, but I am keen on doing some simple mods. 

 

I have been reading Datsunzgarage and I have begun to formulate a plan to go forward.

 

I currently have an F54 block with a P90a head.

I want to keep the crank, rods, and possibly the flat top pistons as they appear to be in good condition.

 

I am planning to get the head shaved, as mentioned on Datsunzgarage so I know it requires the cam to have shims under it to keep the chain tension in spec. 

 

I obviously also plan on replacing the bearings, gaskets, etc, but planning on just going with stock items.

 

I also need to replace the cam anyway, as it has a bit of corrosion I am not happy about. This is where I am needing some advice. I want this car to be streetable, I am not looking for a super lumpy track pig. I want to try to retain my valves just clean them up and lap them. There is a small, but noticeable wear line on the last rocker (others seem pretty good), which lines up with the most corroded cam lobe. Do I need to get all new lifters with a new cam? Is getting them resurfaced a more cost effective option.

 

I was advised that if I did shave the head and raise the cam, that I would need longer valves? I am wondering, if I get the head shaved, can I then get a cam with higher lift and just add more lash?

 

Basically my whole aim, is to do 99% of it myself at home. I realise I will need a machine shop to shave the head, and possibly get them to thoroughly clean the head and block. Is there anything else I MUST do?

 

Also to note, I am thinking I will run triple webers, and an exhaust to be determined.

Let me know if I am stupid, or if there is a better way.

 

Jeff

 

Categories: Forum Activity

Very Straight Front Grille (Slated Type)

Classifieds - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 23:59

Hey Folks,

I'm in the middle of trying to straighten out a slightly bent grille, but thought I'd see if there is anyone out there with a good straight 1 for sale and what kind of asking prices?

 

I can probably get mine straight again with enough time invested but might be better off with another if I can find 1.

 

Thanks,

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ubqAKbbCDKsbfKRG2

Categories: Forum Activity

Very Straight Front Grille (Slated Type)

Latest Posts - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 23:59

Hey Folks,

I'm in the middle of trying to straighten out a slightly bent grille, but thought I'd see if there is anyone out there with a good straight 1 for sale and what kind of asking prices?

 

I can probably get mine straight again with enough time invested but might be better off with another if I can find 1.

 

Thanks,

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ubqAKbbCDKsbfKRG2

Categories: Forum Activity

Watanabe Distributor in Australia

Latest Posts - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 23:15
Quoted from classicz;

I know a lot of people here are very interested to know who i got my brand new watanabe's from, i didn't want to post details, until everything had been complete, but i am now more than confident to vouch for this supplier!

The Guys name is Miki Yokohata from prestige mart (Details below), and he has been incredibly helpful during the whole process.

The wheels are not what you would call cheap, but given that you could easily pay over AU$1500 for a secondhand set here in Australia, i thought it was more than reasonable.

It cost me $2300 for a set of 16x8 and a set of 16x8.5 Watanabe R 8 spokes in Magnesium finish. That included shipping (EMS with insurance)

as you may have read, i had ordered the wheels with a michined lip, however watanabe forgot this, and shipped them purely with a magnesium colour.. Miki helped me greatly by organising for watanabe to pay for the local finishing here in Sydney, i can not be any happier! i just wish all suppliers were as open with their communication and honesty

I am pretty sure he can order anything you want from RS watanabe, i however supplied the spec to him

Miki Yokohata
Prestige Mart
email: tpot@tpg.com.au
http://users.tpg.com.au/tpot

he is based in Western Australia and has an australian bank account etc. so no need to deal with japan accounts etc.

to have a look at what Watanabe offer, goto their website at: www.rs-watanabe.co.jp (they have a pretty good user gallery too!)

Categories: Forum Activity

Datsun Grey/Gray Paint

Latest Posts - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 19:24
Hi Guys,
Does anyone know where you can get paint that matches the original 'Datsun Grey' used on the rear light panel, front grill, hub-caps etc?
Posted Image
Seen here also:

I found this comment in a thread here:
http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/26354-have-rear-panel-painted-leave-black.html#post265331

But I'm not sure if we have those paints available in Australia? Has anyone found a suitable product locally?
Categories: Forum Activity

new front bumper for datsun 450zx

Latest Gallery Uploads - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 18:00

Restyled front bumper to allow more air in 

Categories: Member Activity

starting the polishing of the engine

Latest Gallery Uploads - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 18:00

starting the polishing of the engine, next will be the engine bay 

Categories: Member Activity

Interesting

Latest Gallery Uploads - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 18:00

 

Categories: Member Activity

Interesting

Latest Gallery Uploads - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 18:00

 

Categories: Member Activity

Interesting

Latest Gallery Uploads - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 18:00

 

Categories: Member Activity

My 240Z and my Brother's 1600

Latest Gallery Uploads - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 18:00

 

240Z 1600 510

Categories: Member Activity

Street Spec 1973 240Z

Latest Posts - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 11:48

Hi guys,

 

Thought it was time to start up a build thread to share our works in progress and keep a record for the car. I posted a short story last year which can be found at the link below which gives you an insight into the family story and where the passion for Z cars has come from.

 

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12374-new-240z-member-sydney/

 

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The car was purchased in March 2014 year from a gentleman in Brisbane who had owned it since 1990. The car spent most of its life in Melbourne, where is had a restoration undertaken in 2000 by Lowood Welding Works where the body was taken back to bare metal, lead wiped and resprayed. The motor is original matching numbers which has assisted in our decision to stick with the L24. Our plans for the car are to make it a nice street driven car that can be taken out for weekend drives without having too many issues, yet also enjoy the odd windy road. The car itself has been quite well looked after but needed some well deserved attention in a few areas, especially the suspension / mechanics, so we decided this would be a good place to start.

 

The shocks and rubbers were completely worn out, so we purchased a set Koni Yellow Race shocks and a DIY Ground Control coilover kit. Also bought a set of new bushings all round to help take the boat feel out of the car. We were lucky enough to use our Dad's engineering factory, including the help of a competent welder, to complete the harder works such as cutting, welding, sandblasting etc. They took longer than expected to complete but we are very happy with the result. They seem like quite a good quality product, and they look good pretty good as well.

 

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While we had most of the suspension components out of the car, we decided to give it all all clean up by sandblasting and epoxy painting. This included the control arms, sway bar, tension rods, a-arms, moustache bar etc. Pretty happy with how they turned out, although it makes the remaining dirty undercarriage stand out even more, however we do plan on treating these areas in the future.

 

IMG_0129.JPG    IMG_0197.JPG    IMG_0454.JPG    IMG_0293.JPG

 

The brakes also had an overhaul while they were out. We stripped them down, cleaned, replaced broken boots etc and rebuilt them to original specs at this stage. One of the front pistons was seized open which probably didn't help with the lack of brakes. We didn't spend too much time on them as we do plan on some upgrades eventually.

 

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After a 3 month wait, the Wats turned up from Otomotto. Temp fit had us a bit worried at first as it looked like they were never going to fit!Time to go get some tyres..

 

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Categories: Forum Activity

Carbies & Exhaust Backfire. Timing ?

Latest Posts - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 11:43
Hey guys I have been going around in circles for a long time now. I have read all the books and searched the net high and low with nothing that has really stood out.
I seem to have what I think is a timing issue but cant seem to find what is causing it. The car starts and idles but when the throttle is pushed it backfires from the exhaust and also the carbies and stumbles like its misfiring. It doesnt matter what I do to the carbies ot just keeps happening.
Things I have checked and seems to be ok
-Valve clearances.
-Carbies. Floats, needles, 2.5 tuns out on jets, dashpots drop with a clunk ATF oil in them.
-Distributor is 280zx. Matching base wired to diagram on the net
-Coil is pertronix 3ohm. Bench tested with multimeter and is within specs
-New leads, plugs, cap and rotor
-checked for vacuum leaks and have nothing I can find.
-Compression check 150psi over all cylinders
-Checked Timing marks and cant see an issue but maybe overlooking something. Both cam lobes are both up. Sprocket is set on 1. Chain doesnt seem to have stretch according to the notch. Crank pulley is zero'd at TDC and cylinder 1 piston is at TDC.
I have included a few pics of the timing marks at TDC can anyone see any issues.
Does the rotor look like its not pointing at exactly TDC 1 Attached Thumbnails
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Categories: Forum Activity

Indicator Switch Upgrade - Non Oem

Latest Posts - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 11:38

After several attempts to repair the OEM switch I've given up and performed an upgrade.

 

I found this process on HydridZ but I couldn't locate the switch suggested. 

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125801-repair-solution-for-bad-turn-signal-switch/

 

I found this switch at Bursons and after grinding away a bit of the dia on the toggle arm it worked perfectly.

 

Indicator replacement switch 1s.jpg

 

I've included locations of the holes - best done before cutting the plate to size.

 

Indicator replacement switch 2s mod.jpg

 

The hole sizes are 3mm for the securing screws and 11mm for the switch. 

Categories: Forum Activity

Cars For Sale (3rd Party Sites) Ebay, Carsales etc..

Classifieds - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 10:27
Hi Everyone,

If you are posting links to cars listed on ebay, it would be greatly appreciated if you could:

1.) Post the Ebay Item Number (usually located in the top right hand corner), along with the Ebay link. Sometimes ebay links are not reliable or don't work properly so including an item number is an easy way for others to look up the item if the link is broken.

2.) When the ebay listing is finished, if you could post the sale price and or the highest bid (if the item does not sell). If others are not watching an item, we cannot visit the item at a later stage easily so we cannot tell what it sold or didn't sell for.

3.) If possible save a few photo's from the auction and post them here. This is useful because it gives everyone an indication of current values and what you get for your money if you are looking to buy or sell.

This will help us all, for insurance reasons we have some proof of current values. For selling it helps us gauge our cars true worth and for curiosity sake we can compare year on year the values of our cars etc..

If anyone has further suggestions to this, please feel free to share them here.
Categories: Forum Activity

Cars For Sale (3rd Party Sites) Ebay, Carsales etc..

Latest Posts - Sat, 21/10/2017 - 10:27
Hi Everyone,

If you are posting links to cars listed on ebay, it would be greatly appreciated if you could:

1.) Post the Ebay Item Number (usually located in the top right hand corner), along with the Ebay link. Sometimes ebay links are not reliable or don't work properly so including an item number is an easy way for others to look up the item if the link is broken.

2.) When the ebay listing is finished, if you could post the sale price and or the highest bid (if the item does not sell). If others are not watching an item, we cannot visit the item at a later stage easily so we cannot tell what it sold or didn't sell for.

3.) If possible save a few photo's from the auction and post them here. This is useful because it gives everyone an indication of current values and what you get for your money if you are looking to buy or sell.

This will help us all, for insurance reasons we have some proof of current values. For selling it helps us gauge our cars true worth and for curiosity sake we can compare year on year the values of our cars etc..

If anyone has further suggestions to this, please feel free to share them here.
Categories: Forum Activity